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I'm not sure how to tell the dif between a std. TOM bridge and a LockTone TOM if there is one. Here's the rub: The nut width is NOT 1. The neck also meets the body at the 17th fret NOT the 16th fret as mentioned on a number of sites.
The sites I've read say the 17th fret neck joint went from ' No markings on the headstock other than "Epiphone" and "E" truss rod cover.
Also, is it possible to tell the difference between a "set neck" and "dove tail" by just looking at the guitar? The "F" holes are painted Black.
Yes the nut is a bit narrow. I removed spacers from under the Fralins because the pups were too close to the strings and after a quick setup I'll do another after it settles in the guitar plays very well, sounds great clean and dirty, and is in excellent shape.
Any ideas other than a possible model made with or older parts? BigMikeinNJ View Profile View Forum Posts. Join Date Mar Posts 2, It's not uncommon for Fender, Gibson, Ibanez and other companies to use up NOS parts and necks and bodies when making something with a more current date.
They're sure not gonna throw out those perfectly good parts. I've seen some pretty neat guitars where a factory used up inventory to do a build.
Why not?? Hope you enjoy the heck out of it and play it in good health. Yes, but what are you looking for? I looked inside the guitar. Thanks Mike.
We'll see. I haven't played it at length or with a band yet. They seem to fit my playing best. OK, if I did this correctly here are some pics of the guitar.
Join Date Aug Location cali Posts 8, Yes, the Fralins do sound great. I have his humbuckers in another guitar. The thing that puzzles me the most is the 1.
But the Korean make Casino std's are supposed to have the wider nut, so then one would ask what was a 1. Special order?
I know, strange. I sometimes focus too much on the details. Thumpalumpacus View Profile View Forum Posts Private Message. Join Date May Location Hill Country Posts 1, For your more detailed questions, you might want to look up the moderator Paruwi on MyLesPaul.
He knows quite a bit about Epis -- more on the solid-body side, but he might be able to help. My cherry Casino is pretty much like to OP git except the nut at its narrowest point is 1.
It plays like a dream, and stands shoulder to shoulder with my CS ES They are probably the best deal on the planet.
Gnappi: Yes, mine has the post support under the bridge as well. Hep To The Jive View Profile View Forum Posts Private Message.
Petersburg, Russia Posts 2, Enjoy, looks like a great guitar! I think Epiphone only recently started making Casino's with the 'correct' neck joint at the 16th fret.
All older Asian-made models have a neck joint at the 17th fret. I don't know exactly when they switched, but it can't be much longer ago than a couple of years.
I don't know if that causes a difference in string tension and feel. Theoretically a the 17th-fret neck joint leaves a little more 'afterlength' for the strings between bridge and tailpiece, which should feel a little looser, but I don't think it would be that noticable.
Where the older US-made Epiphone Casino's were exact copies of Gibson's ES - except for the headstock - the Asian including Japanese models differ slightly in body shape, position of the f-holes, shape of the horns, etc.
One would only notice seeing the Casino and ES side by side, but they do differ. I never looked inside a Casino, but I am curious how the top is braced.
I know the ES has the kerfed spruce 'spacer' that in the ES connects the centre block to the top and back: What does the Casino have? I am curious because in my Epiphone Sheraton the top and back are glued directly to the centre block, without the kerfed spruce spacer the centre block is roughly shaped to follow the contours, but it's far from perfect showing some gaps.
There's also a block at the neck and one at the rear top to bottom plus the side kerfing. Except for the blocks, center post, and kerfing there are no bottom braces.
The top looks slightly lighter than the pic posted but both top and bottom look good, it's not plain grain. Duotone View Profile View Forum Posts Private Message.
Join Date Nov Location Germany Posts Here are some gut shots of my Matsumoku made Casino. No bridge support post but a preferably well contoured centre block beneath the top:.
Duotone: Unlike yours mine has a bit of a gap in spots. Thanks guys, I always wondered! So it's actually kind of like a 'floating centre block' and no braces nor the kerfed spacer more like a series of parallel bracings of the ES The Casino has substantially more mass attached to the top than the Is the tone also more that of a semi then?
I don't have a lot a experience playing Casinos and s, but I remember a 60ies I once tried being lighter and 'airier' than a Casino I tried in a store.
The latter sounded very mellow and dark but rather pleasing and in a good way , although the Henriksen amp I played it through probably contributed to that.
Join Date Dec Posts Christmas gift! Not that I was surprised I had a serious itch for a thinline guitar, cherry red or bust, and budget.
I liked the Century but zeroed in pretty early on standard Casinos, did my homework about them, how posts have lower wound P90s, etc… This little gal was the first I tried, and it was the best no matter how many I tried.
Thank you wife, thank you kids, for feeding the addiction ;D. Join Date Oct Posts So and older have lower output P90s?
Do you know what the ballpark resistance is? Join Date Nov Location San Francisco Posts 1, Usually, big depositors and longevity provide a strong case for the player to become a VIP or not.
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